From money and receipts to certificates and payslips, paper is so ubiquitous in our daily lives as to be banal. But washi is another matter altogether. Unlike most machine-made papers, handmade washi exudes a quiet warmth and beauty that deserves our attention.
Washi, or Japanese paper, refers to handmade paper that uses the fibres of the inner bark of grasses such as mulberry, gampi, and mitsumata. Tougher, more pliable, and more durable than regular paper made from wood pulp, it is a remarkably versatile product, appearing in all manner of products from clothes to packaging. In addition, washi also has a warmth and translucency unmatched by its machine-made counterpart.
All of the above qualities make it highly sought after by museums and libraries for repairing historically valuable books and paintings. Little wonder, then, that three washi traditions were successfully listed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2014.
Types of washi
There are three main types of washi, so named for the plant from which they derive. In practice, there are hundreds of washi variations even in a single region, crafted and calibrated to the end user’s requirements and intended use. Washi craftspeople combine these fibers in various proportions. For example, combining mitsumata with mulberry results in a smoother, brighter-looking paper than one only using mulberry fibers.
Gampishi
Formerly referred to as hishi, this high-quality paper is made with fibers from the ganpi plant (Diplomorpha sikokiana honda, or Wikstroemia sikokiana). Gampi (or ganpi) is difficult to cultivate, so makers usually collect ganpi that grows wild in the mountains; this also accounts for its relative rarity compared to the other two types of washi.
Gampishi is valued for its smooth, glossy surface, which makes it tolerant of humidity, and resistant to insects and ageing. It is ideal for delicate brushwork, and was used during the Heian period for letter-writing and gift-wrapping, and later on, for painting and as parchment by Christian missionaries who came to Japan. One example of pure ganpishi is Sekishu Torinoko Ganpi, a soft, silky paper often used for mending and conserving paper artworks.
Kozogami
Kozogami (also known as choshi) refers to paper made with the fibers of the mulberry tree. This plant is native to Japan and widely cultivated, so it is also the most common form of washi. Its long fibers (around 5-20mm) create strong, dimensionally stable, and durable paper, making it sought after for book-binding and manuscript repair, as well as in crafting products such as umbrellas, lanterns, fusuma screens, fans, and more.
Mitsumata
Mitsumata refers to both the paper and the plant it is made from. This shrub with leathery leaves and fragrant yellow flowers — Edgeworthia chrysantha or the Oriental paperbush — is native to China and Myanmar, but was introduced to and naturalised in Japan by travellers. It produces a fine-grained paper with a warm, pinkish tone and gentle lustre. Mitsumata has been used to print Japanese banknotes since 1879, and these days, a significant proportion of the raw material is sourced from Nepal.
The papermaking process
Making washi is not for the impatient. Preparing the fibres alone is a lengthy and tedious process that can take several weeks or months. The process varies slightly from maker to maker, but essentially, one has to steam the harvested bark, strip and dry it, scrape it again, wash and boil it to remove any impurities, and beat until they separate into fine, loose, and soft fibres. The fibres are combined with water and mucilage (tororo-aoi) to make a pulp with the consistency of egg white. Only now can we begin making the paper itself.
Paper had been introduced to Japan from China via the Korean Peninsula by the seventh century. Nagashi-zuki, the technique used to make washi, was developed around 805 - 809, and is still used today. It’s best done in winter for two reasons: one, the pulp is best made with pure, cold running water; two, the raw material in the pulp spoils less quickly in the cold. You dip a large wooden frame fitted with a silk and bamboo screen into this vat of pulp, and swish it back and forth, evenly distributing this viscous liquid across the screen. Let the excess liquid drain off, leaving fine fibres clinging to the screen. The fibres entwine in a way that strengthens the final product, making the paper less likely to rip.
Dip and repeat until the screen is covered to one’s satisfaction — that might be a thick 0.6mm, or as thin as 0.2mm if the maker is skilled. Then, each sheet is transferred from the frame onto a flat surface to dry, with additional weights to squeeze out the remaining water. Some small workshops transfer them to a heated conveyor belt that dries the paper in seconds.
Washi across Japan
Some regions are more famous for their washi than others; the following are some of the most notable types of washi produced in Japan today.
Echizen Washi, Fukui Prefecture
The Echizen region in Fukui Prefecture just north of Kyoto has over 1,300 years of paper-making history; it is said to be one of the earliest washi-producing regions. Its paper products were highly sought after in the Kyoto court. For some centuries from 755 onwards, the Echizen region would pay the government taxes in the form of paper specifically made for Buddhist sutra-writing. Even now, the Imperial Family uses Echizen paper to announce new royal births.
Today, it continues to be one of Japan’s top washi producers in terms of quality, quantity, and variety, turning out paper for everything from sake labels to wallpaper. At its peak, the area had over 100-plus businesses; now, only 20 workshops in the area continue to make paper entirely by hand.
To learn about Echizen washi, visit the Udatsu Paper and Craft Museum, as well as the Paper and Culture Museum in Echizen Washi Village. A hands-on experience at one of the facilities in the area — such as Papyrus House or the Udatsu Museum — is also worth the time to appreciate the craft behind papermaking.
Hosokawa Washi, Ogawa Town, Saitama Prefecture
Hosokawa washi is one of three Japanese paper traditions registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The center of its production is in the small village of Higashi-chichibu in Ogawa Town, Saitama Prefecture. During the mid-Edo period, a particular technique for creating Hosokawa mulberry paper was introduced to this region. The beautiful, durable paper was highly sought after by Edo merchants, officials, and regular folk; production in the village flourished, in part thanks to its proximity to Edo. Today, its paper is used by the likes of the Louvre and the British Museum in their art and manuscript conservation.
To learn about Hosokawa washi, visit the Furusato Cultural Education Centre, which features exhibits detailing traditional industries in the area. The Hosokawa Papermaking House, designated as a tangible folk cultural property, also showcases various paper-making tools and papers. Those who are interested in in-depth washi-making courses can even sign up for a four-day experience at the Ogawa Washi Learning Centre. As a bonus, Ogawa Town is a pleasant day trip from Tokyo.
Honmino Washi, Mino, Gifu Prefecture
Mino washi, or Hon-mino washi, is the second of three paper traditions that was registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2014. Washi production became a central economic pillar for Mino Province around the turn of the 13th century, and it flourished over the centuries as travellers to Mino brought paper back to their homelands. During the Edo period, the area enjoyed special privileges as a paper production area.
Mino washi is essential to crafts like lanterns, umbrellas, and fans. It continues to be a major export for the city today. To learn about this washi tradition, visit the Mino-Washi Museum, where you can also sign up for a papermaking experience.
Sekishu-banshi, Hamada City, Shimane Prefecture
Sekishu washi has been produced in the Iwami region of Shimane Prefecture for around 1,300 years. The technique was supposedly taught to people in the region by a poet-aristocrat named Kakinomoto no Hitomaru during the Nara period (710-794). Sekishu-banshi, which refers to a type of washi that was commonly used for calligraphy, is the third of the paper traditions registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Sekishu-banshi is reputed to be the strongest washi in Japan. Indeed, it was exceptionally popular among merchants in Osaka for use in account books thanks to their durability and water resistance; apparently, account books thrown into wells in the case of fire were entirely usable after being dried.
Today, Sekishu washi continues to be produced in Hamada City in west Shimane. Few traditional papermakers remain. There are only four in Misumi, all family-operated: Kawahira, Sekishu Washi Kubota, Nishita Washi Kobo, and Nishita Seishisho. To learn about this style of washi, visit the Sekishu Washi Center in Hamada City. A paper-making workshop is available with advance reservation.
Tosa Washi, Kochi Prefecture
Tosa washi refers to traditional Japanese paper made in the city of Tosa and around the town of Ino in Kochi Prefecture. Most if not all production centers are located near the Niyodo River, as a steady supply of clear, cold water is essential for washi production. During the Heian period (794-1185), it was used for wrapping gifts presented to the Imperial Family, as well as making components for an aristocratic game called kai awase. A particular type of washi offered to the shogunate was the thin, beautifully coloured Tosa ‘seven-colour paper,’ a set of papers dyed in persimmon, yellow, peach, purple, light green, light blue, and blue.
Like most washi, Tosa washi is thin, strong, and versatile, and used in a wide variety of products from sliding doors to lanterns. To learn about this washi tradition, visit the Ino-cho Paper Museum in Kochi Prefecture, which details the history of this tradition and exhibits hundreds of types of Tosa washi.