Regional Train Bento: A Tour of Japanese Cuisine

To eat like a local in Japan, eat on the train. Eating is frowned upon on shorter rides but enthusiastically embraced as part of long rail journeys. Central to this experience is ekiben: train station bento.

There are an estimated 2,000 to 3,000 different ekiben available across Japan. They reflect the culinary identity of its 47 prefectures, often using ingredients produced nearby or recipes handed down through generations.

Ekiben offer travelers a chance to sample regional Japanese cuisine in a portable, beautifully packaged meal, making these boxes an essential food item in any Japan trip.

This guide introduces a number of iconic train station bento from across the country as well as the culinary heritage behind them.

Hokkaido: Ikameshi (Squid Rice)

One of Japan’s most well-known ekiben, ikameshi made its debut at Mori Station in southern Hokkaido in 1941, two years after Japan entered World War II. This triggered a nationwide rice shortage and strict rationing.

Mori Station’s location next to a bay abundant with flying squid inspired a creative solution: ikameshi. By stuffing squid with rice and cooking it, you would get a meal that filled your stomach while saving on rice.

The squid is boiled twice: in water for 15 minutes then in soy sauce and brown sugar for another 15 minutes. This creates a sweet-and-salty flavor that may be simple but has won the dish many fans.

Transcending the boundaries of railway bento, ikameshi has become a specialty of southern Hokkaido as well as a fixture at ekiben fairs in other parts of Japan.

Tohoku region: Ami-yaki Gyutan (Beef Tongue Grilled on Wire Mesh)

Launched in 1990, this grilled beef tongue bento has become one of the best-selling ekiben at Sendai Station, the gateway to north-east Japan.

The boxed meal also represents the modern age of ekiben because of its self-heating techonology – just pull the string and the box heats up on its own, making it a nice change from most ekiben, which come cold or at room temperature.

Inside the container is white rice mixed with barley and topped with tender gyutan. It’s considered one of the easiest ways to experience the city’s signature beef tongue cuisine as it is available not just in Sendai Station but also in other locations such as Tokyo Station.

This regional specialty dates back to the post-World War II period, when local eateries began offering set meals featuring grilled beef tongue, barley rice and oxtail soup. Ironically, the dish does not seem to have deep historical roots in the area – according to one theory, it originated from leftover beef tongue imported for the US occupying forces.

Today, beef tongue can be found on menus at yakiniku restaurants across Japan and Sendai gyutan restaurants have expanded into nationwide chains. Their success may be due in no small part to this ekiben, which transported a regional dish to national fame.

Chubu region: Echizen Kanimeshi (Crab Rice)

If there’s an ekiben that represents north-west Japan, it must be this Fukui Station bento. Launched in 1961 to showcase Fukui prefecture’s Echizen crab, it has become one of Japan’s most popular kanimeshi ekiben.

Unlike most crab bentos, which are often vinegared and include pickles and other sides, this version focuses solely on crab. The rice is seasoned with crab miso, giving it a savory richness, and topped with meat from the female snow crab, thought to be sweeter than the males.

This attention to detail extends to the microwave-safe container, which evokes a crab shell.

While it’s delicious as-is, the rice can also be enjoyed as fried rice or porridge – just heat the rice with water and crack an egg into it.

Chubu region: Minamoto no Masu no Sushi (Pressed Trout Sushi)

This beloved ekiben from Toyama Station began sales in 1912 but pressed trout sushi, rooted in the food culture of the Jinzu river area, has been enjoyed in Toyama prefecture for centuries.

Traditionally, the sushi was pressed using stones but this railway version uses bamboo sticks and rubber bands to apply pressure.

With bamboo leaves lining a wooden container that evokes traditional craftsmanship, this bento is easily one of the most beautiful ekiben in Japan. Another notable quality of this ekiben is its relatively long shelf life. Even with refrigeration, most bento reach their expiry limit within hours.

Masu no sushi, on the other hand, lasts up to two days in summer and three days in cooler seasons. This makes it ideal not only as a travel bento but also as a souvenir and gift.

A note of caution: the bamboo sticks have been known to fly off and hit people. Remove the rubber bands with care – let this ekiben create only a positive impact.

Kansai region: Hipparidako Meshi (Octopus Rice)

Created to celebrate the opening of the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge in 1998, this ekiben has become one of Japan’s most recognizable station bentos.

It’s so popular that locals jokingly say, ‘Every person in Kansai has this pot’.

The ceramic container is modeled after a traditional tako-tsubo, or octopus pot. Taking advantage of the octopus’ habit of hiding in small spaces, fishermen in the area would lower pots into the ocean at night and pull them up in the morning to check for a catch.

Fishing out this pot at a rail station store will net you simmered octopus, fried surimi fish cake, bamboo shoots and matsutake mushrooms. The summer version features corn, pumpkin and tomato.

If you’re exploring the region or hunting for Japan’s most memorable ekiben, look out for this one. Who knows? If you take the pot home, you may be granted honorary Kansai resident status.

Chugoku region: Anagomeshi (Conger Eel Rice)

First sold in 1901 at Miyajimaguchi Station in Hiroshima prefecture, this living culinary relic is sometimes called the coelacanth of ekiben for having survived unchanged for over a century.

The bento comes in a traditional wooden container wrapped in a paper cover featuring one of 12 historical designs.

Anago rice bowls have long been a specialty of the area but, according to Anagomeshi Ueno, its version differs because of the rice, which is thoroughly seasoned with a conger eel bone broth. The store also uses certain cooking techniques to make sure that the bento tastes good even after a few hours at room temperature.

Some fans prefer it this way, believing that resting the bento allows the flavors to settle and intensify.

Due to railway changes in 2016, this ekiben is no longer sold at the station but can be found at the shop itself, located a short walk from JR Miyajimaguchi Station.

Alternatively, head to Hiroshima Station in the morning – it may be available there in limited quantities.

Kyushu island: Kashiwa Meshi (Chicken Rice)

With over a century of history since its introduction in 1921 at Orio Station in Fukuoka prefecture, this ekiben is regarded as one of Japan’s finest chicken rice bento.

Kashiwa meshi, a regional specialty, can found in ekiben all over Kyushu island but the Orio Station version is probably the most well-known.

In an appealing blend of textures, tastes and colors, flavorful rice is topped with flaked chicken and finely shredded seaweed and egg.

Be sure to take a look at the wrapper – it features well-known sights from the prefecture’s port town of Hakata. This practice of introducing regional attractions on the kakegami dates back to the early days of ekiben and these charming illustrations make this one a keeper.

Extend your ekiben journey

One final tip, especially for Japan first-timers: there’s no rule that says that ekiben have to be consumed on a train. When you reach your destination, why not explore the station’s bentos and find one for the road?

To unbox the next part of your Japan journey, just unwrap its ekiben.

Written by Janice Tay