Introduction
Japan’s love for cats is well-documented, but the country has an equally soft spot for dogs.
Think of all its iconic canines: Hachiko, the loyal dog who waited for his master at Shibuya Station; Otousan, the beloved white Shiba who starred in so many Softbank advertisements; and Kabosu, the unwitting face of a million memes. Consider the popular dog cafes that have queues out the door, and all the pet owners besotted with their toy dogs, dressing them up and pushing them around in strollers. If that isn’t enough, remember that according to a 2023 survey, Japan is the only country in the world where pet cats and dogs (15.9 million) outnumber children under 15 (13.7 million).
Dogs have been cherished in Japan for centuries as hunting partners, companions, and subjects of art and literature. Some dogs were so valued for their spiritual qualities that during the Edo period, people who couldn’t obtain a permit or afford to go on a religious pilgrimage to Ise Grand Shrine would send an okage-inu, a dog who would undertake the journey to the far-off shrine on behalf of an individual. The journey from Edo to Ise alone might take a whole month, requiring the dog to rely on the kindness of strangers and priests to reach its destination.
It should come as no surprise, then, that there are shrines in Japan dedicated to these canine companions. Dog shrines in Japan are also associated with fertility. Since dogs have relatively uncomplicated pregnancies compared to other animals, these shrines draw worshippers praying for safe childbirth and fertility-related blessings. Many women will visit shrines on the twelfth day of the month, which is ‘Day of the Dog’ as it is the twelfth animal of the Chinese Zodiac. For the same reason, these shrines also attract people born in the Year of the Dog.
The following shrines and temples celebrate specific historical figures and their dogs (or their love for dogs). Some of these places also permit visitors to worship with their faithful companions. Depending on the institution, they might even offer services specifically for pets.
Darumaji Temple, Nara
One of Japanese mythology’s most revered figures is Prince Shōtoku (574-622), the semi-legendary regent and politician of the seventh century who is popularly credited with founding and promoting Japanese Buddhism. Among his many sterling qualities were his “heavenly ears that discern all things,” which some of you may remember from the entry on Yatsumimi Shrine in Tokyo.
Darumaji Temple in the town of Ōji, Nara Prefecture, is another place associated with the Prince of Eight Ears — or more specifically, Yukimaru, his beloved canine companion. According to an early Edo period compilation of stories about Prince Shōtoku, the prince had assigned an official to care for Yukimaru and feed him daily. But one day, the dog came up to the prince, standing there with his front paws folded as though pleading or begging. Seeing his skinny frame, the prince realised that his dog was trying to tell him that the attendant was stealing his food, but could do nothing without proof.
Prince Shōtoku told Yukimaru to ask a scholar named Gakuka to write a petition for him. (Precisely how the dog managed to communicate this to the scholar is not specified.) Yukimaru returned with a petition, and after reading it, the prince summoned the attendant and reprimanded him. Thereafter, Yukimaru was able to eat his meals in full.
But why Darumaji Temple? While he didn’t have quite as many adventurous exploits as his master, Yukimaru supposedly understood human speech and had even been known to chant Buddhist sutras. Indeed, this wise dog held Bodhidharma — the monk who established Zen Buddhism in China — in great reverence, and it was his dying wish that he be buried at Darumaji Temple.
Today, one can visit his (supposed) grave at Darumaji, and pay respects to the granite statue of him on the grounds. A special canine parade featuring kimono-clad dogs was held at Darumaji in 2024 to celebrate the 11th year of Yukimaru becoming the official town mascot for Ōji — one can only hope they’ll make that a regular event going forward.
Incidentally, Prince Shōtoku is the subject of another legend associated with Darumaji Temple, this time about its founding. The Nihon Shoki recounts a tale of the prince travelling to Mount Kataoka, and encountering a man by the roadside who was on the brink of death from cold and hunger. Overcome by pity, the prince dismounted and tried to help, offering him food and drink, and finally covering the man in his own purple robe for warmth.
When the prince returned the following day, the man had already passed away. Filled with grief, Prince Shōtoku had him buried in this very spot — but days later, the tomb was found to be empty, with his robes neatly folded and left on top. A belief that the starving man had been Bodhidharma arose, and people in the area began referring to the burial mound as the ‘Daruma Tomb.’ This supposedly led to the temple’s founding in the first half of the 13th century.
Yoshimizu Shrine, Nara
Located in the Nakasenbon area of Mount Yoshino, Yoshimizu Shrine was originally a Buddhist temple founded in the eighth century. It has harboured a number of prominent historical figures over the centuries, including the warlord Minamoto Yoshitsune and Emperor Go-Daigo. The warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi famously hosted a 5,000-person cherry blossom-viewing party here in 1594, and rightly so — the view is stunning.
Of all the figures enshrined here, Emperor Go-Daigo is relevant to our interests. Yoshimizu Shrine was a de facto Imperial Palace for a time during the 14th century, as the Emperor established a competing Southern Court at Yoshino when the imperial family was split into two opposing factions. He was known for his love of dogs, and during his rule, the popular sport of dog-shooting was briefly banned out of concern for the dogs’ welfare. (Does this make him the first animal rights activist in Japan?) This ruling was unfortunately overturned by the shōgun Ashikaga Takauji, but the Emperor’s love for dogs went down in history.
Today, Yoshimizu Shrine prides itself on being a pet-friendly shrine. They offer special pet blessing and prayer ceremonies — not limited to dogs — for health, longevity, recovery from illness, general happiness, anti-misfortune, and Shichi-Go-San visits.
Kōzanji Temple, Kyoto
Located deep in the mountains of west Kyoto, Kōzan-ji is an Esoteric Buddhist temple and one of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It was founded in 1206 by Myōe, a priest and scholar who had served at the nearby Jingo-ji Temple. He originally chose to name this temple Hiidetemazukousanwoterasuyama-no-tera, which is taken verbatim from a line in the Avatamsaka sutra that translates to: “When the sun appears, it first casts its light upon the highest mountain.” Fortunately for us, the temple now goes by the blessedly shorter name of Kōzan-ji.
According to his biography, Myōe was famous for his compassion for animals. As a child, he often wondered whether small animals were the reincarnations of his deceased parents. Once, after stepping over a puppy, he turned back to pay his respects to the little dog. He was said to have been particularly fond of puppies, which seem to have appeared in a number of his dreams according to his ‘Dream Record.’ (It’s nice to know that people have kept dream journals for millennia.)
Among his most cherished possessions was a life-sized wooden carving of a puppy — his version of a stuffed toy, one supposes. Created during the Kamakura period, this carving was supposedly commissioned by Myōe from the renowned sculptor Tankei, the eldest son of master sculptor Unkei. This puppy with its tilted head and round glass eyes has a certain charm to it. The writer Shiga Naoya wrote that it “makes one feel like stroking it from time to time.”
This statue is one of a number of National Treasures that can be viewed at Kōzan-ji. The temple’s secluded location in the mountains means that the downtown Kyoto crowds are nowhere to be seen. Also, the mountain views are simply gorgeous.
Inutsugu Shrine, Hyogo
As we’re beginning to see, Japanese history has no shortage of faithful canine companions, named or otherwise. In fact, dogs venerated at shrines and temples seem to have been formally named at an overall higher rate than their feline counterparts — more often than not, the cats seem to have remained unnamed.
Inutsugu Shrine (not Kenji Shrine, whatever Google Maps claims) in Hyogo Prefecture is another place that venerates dogs, and yes, the dog responsible for this has a name. The shrine has a few unusual features. One is that it’s never had a torii gate despite being a Shinto shrine. Another is that there is a Buddhist temple bell dedicated here.
According to Harima no Kuni Fudoki, an early Nara period text compiling the various ins and outs of Harima Province, the Emperor Ōjin once visited this land with his dog Manashiro (Lit. Adorable White) to hunt deer. Legend says that Manashiro chased a wild boar up a hill and successfully killed it, though he died in battle. The Emperor had the dog buried to the west of the hill upon which he perished.
The villagers who tended Manashiro’s grave came to revere him as the deity of childbirth, stemming from the belief that dogs have relatively easy labour compared to other animals. Such are the supposed origins of Inutsugu Shrine. Today, worshippers hoping for an easy, safe delivery may take a handful of sand from a specific area behind the main hall, wrap it in paper, and take it home. Once they have delivered their child (without incident, one hopes), they must return with this sand to offer thanks.
Sukunahikona Shrine, Osaka
Readers may remember Sukunahikona Shrine as one enshrining Shen Nong, second of the mythical emperors in Chinese mythology and the figure credited with having discovered tea. It is largely known as a shrine of medicine, entirely fitting given its location in Doshōmachi a historic neighbourhood for traders dealing in traditional medicine and a present-day hub for pharmaceutical companies.
However, the same neighbourhood is also home to a number of pet-related businesses, including manufacturers of pet deodorants and veterinary medicines (e.g. Bussan Animal Health, Nippon Bulk Yakuhin, Sumitomo Pharma, etc.)
In the same spirit, then, visitors to Sukunahikona Shrine may also bring their pets — usually dogs — to pray for their health, and pick up fortune slips, votive tablets, and amulets for their beloved companions at the same time. It almost goes without saying that you should visit during Shichi-Go-San to see all manner of adorable dogs dressed in kimono. Leashes are mandatory for all pets.
Written by Florentyna Leow