Introduction
I’ve been mulling over the notion of the ‘sacred and the silly’ of late — the sheer preponderance of shrines and temples in Japan that seem absurd in theme, but whose intentions are serious and genuine. There’s a self-aware humour in the physical trappings of a given place, underpinned by earnestness and dedication (and also, probably, a commitment to the bit). Such qualities are practically non-negotiable at a temple or shrine dedicated to breasts.
If we are to speak on a purely informal, anecdotal level — with many caveats about who is doing the speaking — many people in Japan love boobs. This isn’t openly celebrated in polite society, but that appreciation does show up in the popular media of various subcultures. (Anime, gravure, we’re looking at you.) Unfortunately, religion is part of polite society, and unlike cats, tits aren’t as popular an object of veneration for law-abiding citizens.
Nevertheless, there are a handful of shrines and temples across Japan that make space for anything and everything related to one’s hooters. They are conceptually funny — how could they not be? — but are also sincere, genuine places for people to pray for ample breast milk, safe childbirth, safe mastectomies, and relief from breast cancer, uterine cancer, or mastitis. Most of them are colloquially referred to as ‘Oppai Jinja’ (Boob Shrine) or ‘Oppai-dera’ (Boob Temple), ‘oppai’ being a childish slang word used for breasts.
Should you happen to be near one of them on your travels, they are well worth a short visit.
Karube Shrine, Okayama
On the grounds of Karube Shrine near Soja City are the remains of a large, dead weeping cherry tree, which bloomed for around 400 years until 1940. Its name was ‘Tarachine-no-sakura,’ or literally, ‘mother/parent cherry.’ This tended to be interpreted as ‘hanging breasts’ due to how the words were pronounced. On this basis, worshippers came to associate the tree with parenthood, safe childbirth, breast health, and the provision of ample breast milk.
While it is sometimes referred to as ‘chichigamisama’ (literally, ‘breast deity’), no specific breast-related kami are officially enshrined here. The main deities at this shrine are Kuniokotachi-no-Mikoto, Izanagi-no-Mikoto, Amaterasu-Omikami, Koto-no-Mikoto, and Hayatama-no-Mikoto. Exactly when people began offering breast-shaped ema (votive tablets) to the shrine remains unclear. Most of the wishes written on the ema (votive tablets) relate to relief from breast cancer; a small proportion of worshippers simply hope for more cosmetic changes, like larger or firmer boobs. (This is a non-judgemental space.)
The shrine was originally built in 1334 on the summit of Mt. Karube, and named Oji Gongen Shrine, but was relocated to its present site in 1678. It only attained its present name in 1869, taking its name from the mountain nearby.
Chichimiwa Shrine, Hokkaido
Because Hokkaido was only colonised by Japan in 1869, there aren’t as many Shinto shrines in the northernmost prefecture to begin with. As such, most of the religious institutions here are relatively new, mostly dating back to the 20th century. Chichimiwa Shrine, now located on the precincts of Urahoro Shrine, is one such place.
It supposedly began sometime during the Taisho era (1912-1926) with a tree deep in the forest of Setarai, Urahoro Town. Local women began praying to an old oak tree which had two breast-like knots growing from its trunk, mostly asking for better breast milk flow. Word of its ‘miraculous’ powers spread across various parts of Hokkaido, culminating in a festival to celebrate the ‘kami of breast milk.’
In 1962, a typhoon uprooted the sacred tree. The remaining stump was enshrined at Setarai Shrine, before being relocated to the grounds of Urahoro Shrine. Fortuitously enough, a new oak sapling also sprouted from the spot where the original sacred tree had fallen; it is considered as the second tree of the ‘kami of breast milk.’
Today, worshippers visit the shrine to pray for fertility, safe childbirth, good luck in matchmaking, and relief from ‘women’s illnesses,' presumably those of a gynaecological nature. Wishing for gentler period cramps wouldn’t be a bad idea.
Other titillating highlights at Chichimiwa Shrine include the breast-shaped stone and hand-carved oak wood breast amulets.
Ushio Shrine, Kumamoto
The tiny town of Yumae is home to the fairly nondescript-looking Ushio Shrine, said to promote safe childbirth, milk production, and everything related to child-rearing. What the shrine lacks in architectural distinction it makes up for with their annual fun-filled Breast Festival (a breastival, perhaps), aimed at raising awareness of the various aspects of childbirth, as well as doing their bit to help halt the declining birthrate and ageing population.
Among the various events on the day are a ‘safe childbirth’ prayer ceremony for pregnant women, live performances, dances, and the Breast Milk Speed-Drinking Competition, where participants compete to see who can drink milk from a baby bottle the fastest. However, it seems to be open only to children who have recently weaned off breast-feeding, which might disappoint some adults reading this.
Best of all, there’s the ‘Breast Mochi Toss,’ where participants have to catch tit-shaped mochi that bring good luck — presumably before everything goes tits-up.
Mama Kannon, Aichi
Ryūon-ji, or Mama Kannon as it is better known today, is a Buddhist temple located in Komaki City. Originally built on Mount Komaki in 1492, it was relocated to its present site north of the mountain. The principal deity worshipped here is the Thousand-Armed Kannon, one of the bodhisattvas of compassion; the thousand arms are for them to reach out to all beings in need of help and salvation.
There are claims that it is Japan’s only breast temple (untrue), as well as the only temple dedicated to breastfeeding, which is specific enough that the latter claim might just be true. It’s certainly the only one with an established breastfeeding origin story, as follows.
Some centuries ago, there lived a young newlywed couple with an infant child on the outskirts of the village. Their happiness was short-lived: Shortly before the child was to turn one, the husband travelled to another town for work, but died on the journey. Their relatives were unable to support the widow and her child, and as they had been poor to begin with, she struggled to make ends meet in the aftermath.
Seeing that her supply of milk had dried up, an elderly villager took pity on her and gave her some rice. Still unable to lactate, she decided to face her impending death with dignity. She offered the remaining rice to the Kannon statue on the mountain, praying for peace in the afterlife.
When she returned home, her hunger miraculously disappeared, and her breasts began to swell. She began to produce more breast milk than her child could possibly drink, and as a result, her child soon became healthy and robust. She also shared her excess milk with neighbouring children, earning the gratitude of the other villagers, and allowing her to sustain a livelihood for herself and her child until he reached adulthood.
Most versions of the story suggest that it takes place around the mid-1500s; at any rate, Ryūon-ji’s reputation for breastfeeding-related miracles had been cemented by the early Edo period.
Mama Kannon continues to lean into the tit theme today: There are boob-themed elements all around the temple grounds, including ema, ablution pavilions, incense stick stands, and a topless motion sensor-activated statue that sprays breast milk (water) from its nipples for visitors to wash their hands.
A note about the temple’s name: While Mama Kannon does indeed celebrate motherhood, ‘mama’ does not reference ‘mother,’ and is written with 間々, whose characters mean ‘sometimes, now and then, occasionally.’ ‘Mama’ is also short for ‘mamachichi,’ which still doesn’t explain very much.
A note about the ema: The present ema sold at the temple have three-dimensional breasts made from paper clay, which took the temple several iterations to get right. The earliest version had breasts made with clay used for roof tiles, but with a weak adhesive, so they would eventually fell off. (The priest would excuse this by claiming it was ‘weaning time’ as and when the breasts fell off the ema.) The subsequent version was made using a light, plastic-like material similar to a mayonnaise container, but was pulled after issues with dioxin came to light. Finally, they landed on using paper clay, similar to the material used for daruma dolls — it was light and adhered well to the wood.
Jison-in, Wakayama
Mount Koya in Wakayama was first settled by the legendary monk Kobo Daishi in 826, and is the spiritual heart of Shingon Buddhism (also known as esoteric Buddhism). Even today, it functions as the headquarters for more than 4,000 Shingon Buddhist temples across Japan, and has more than a hundred temples, approximately half of which offer lodgings to pilgrims and visitors.
At the foot of the mountain is the small town of Kudoyama, the gateway to the Choishimichi pilgrimage route. The Jison-in temple complex located here is notable for three reasons. One, it was the residence built for Kobo Daishi’s mother. (He would reportedly walk 24km each way from the top of the mountain to see her, 9 times a month. We love a filial son.) Two, women were not allowed to visit Koyasan until the late 1800s, so worshipping at Jison-in was the spiritual compromise. Three, it’s full of breasts.
All over the temple grounds are thousands of breasts in all shapes and sizes — foam-stuffed, with tiny beads for nipples; large ones; small ones; wooden blocks with pink nipples hanging from a string; painted images.
Jison-in was not always this busty. It seems to have been a late 20th century development. Some decades ago, a local doctor came to pray for a patient undergoing treatment for breast cancer, asking the temple staff to place an offering in the form of female breasts. The story spread, and the temple soon became a site for visitors to pray for anything and everything related to them.
Kawasaki Kannon, Yamaguchi
Founded in 1185, Kawasaki Kannon is a tiny temple in Shunan City that’s only open on the 17th of each month. On this day, the temple opens its doors for the ‘o-settai,’ a custom that involves giving gifts to visiting pilgrims — in their case, rice cooked with beans, and tea for free. Praying here is supposed to bring blessings for healthy pregnancies, safe deliveries, ample milk supply, and successful child-raising. Worshippers have also prayed for improved eyesight at this temple.
Rather unusually, the temple doesn’t seem to have capitalised on its busty reputation by selling breast-themed ema. Instead, all the breasts-in-boxes hanging in the temple have been made and donated by the visitors (typically expecting mothers, or those who have just given birth), which is why they come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles — just like real breasts.
Abuto Kannon, Hiroshima
If this were a contest, Abuto Kannon Bandai-ji Temple would take the prize for Japan’s most scenic breast temple. It’s perched on the edge of Cape Abuto, around 4 kilometres west of the small town of Tomonoura, offering a stunning view of the Seto Inland Sea. The temple is thought to have been founded around 1570-1573 by the feudal lord Mori Terumoto, and is dedicated to Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion and mercy.
The small Kannon hall is absolutely covered in breasts — perfectly round, white ones with pink nipples on wooden ema.
According to the temple priest, the breast-shaped ema here began as a gesture of gratitude from a woman who prayed to the Kannon and safely raised her child — the breasts were originally boob-shaped bags filled with rice. Another woman in need would take the rice home from the temple to be able to maintain her supply of milk. More often than not, she and other women would pay it forward when possible by bringing rice to the temple.
Written by Florentyna Leow